Car's door is frozen

MTB · Post by **MTB** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 11:52 am

Helsinki temperatures in the last years are not so uncommon for the rest of Europe. I am really not impressed about -15 degrees, which does not even happen so often here. So, if you have a decent car, I don't think heaters are really needed. It's good to have one if you have a warm parking lot, but otherwise, going for ones that run on fuel, too much hassle and too little outcome. Might be worth it if you have a truck that refuses to start, but otherwise... normal cars should be able to run well at least above -20 degrees.

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Karhunkoski · Post by **Karhunkoski** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 12:11 pm

MTB - fair point about the -15 in HKI, although further north we get plenty of low temps.

I remember being in northern France during the winter and talking to a Finn in Finland. When I explained that it was substantially colder and more wintry in France than Finland, they couldn't believe their ears. "But this is Finland, we have the cold weather"

Also engine block heaters are not there just to help you start the car, they also reduce emissions and increase the engine life.

zulu_zoro · Post by **zulu_zoro** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 11:44 pm

Hello All,

Nice to hear from all you guys, but my first winter in Finland with 4 wheels. Can anybody explain to me when should i plug the engine block heater to my car, now that the temperature is going to -1 and -2 during night. Or is it only required to be plugged when its really very low like -15 or -20. I have a outside parking with a heater block.
I would be glad if somebody can explain me a direct correlation between temperature and time required to start the heater before leaving for work. How long should i keep the heater on?

Looking forward to response.

Jukka Aho · Post by **Jukka Aho** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:18 am

zulu_zoro wrote:I would be glad if somebody can explain me a direct correlation between temperature and time required to start the heater before leaving for work. How long should i keep the heater on?

Translated from this page:

“The use of block heater significantly reduces cold-start emissions and fuel consumption. It is advisable to start using the heater already at +5°C. At this temperature, the time required for heating the engine block is about half an hour. Between -5 and -10°C, an hour of heating is sufficient. Keep the heater on for two hours when the temperature falls below -10°C.”

AldenG · Post by **AldenG** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:34 am

Also pay attention to how your plug-post operates.

When I lived in a condo, the posts ran for certain hours of the day. So you came home and plugged in your car whenever you got out of it rather than going out the next morning. The posts were "turned on" for a certain amount of time at scheduled times of day. I don't know if they varied the certain amount of time according to outdoor temperature, but that would be the logical thing to do.

maxxfi · Post by **maxxfi** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:08 pm

Does the heater have any other benefits apart of better cold-starts?
I mean, if during a below-zero week I don't need to take the car every day,
am I supposed to plug the heater only the evening preceding the depart or
is there any advantages in having some 'defrosting' done every night, even
if the car is then not used?
(Well, of course, on the other side it can be a waste of energy)

Upphew · Post by **Upphew** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:52 am

maxxfi wrote:Does the heater have any other benefits apart of better cold-starts?
I mean, if during a below-zero week I don't need to take the car every day,
am I supposed to plug the heater only the evening preceding the depart or
is there any advantages in having some 'defrosting' done every night, even
if the car is then not used?
(Well, of course, on the other side it can be a waste of energy)

Oil+water=bad, condensation, I let you draw your own conclusions.

maxxfi · Post by **maxxfi** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:07 pm

Upphew wrote:Oil+water=bad, condensation, I let you draw your own conclusions.

Sorry, I don't get where oil and water gets summed up

lusi · Post by **lusi** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:28 pm

One thing I have done when all else has failed is to use a hair dryer. Put it on its hottest setting and aim it at your lock for a couple of minutes. Then when you finally get the door open, put in the silicone stuff or whatever you are using to thaw the lock. But of course, you have to have a hair dryer, an extension cord and a place to plug it in.

Rob A. · Post by **Rob A.** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:09 pm

Mölkky-Fan · Post by **Mölkky-Fan** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:22 am

lusi wrote:One thing I have done when all else has failed is to use a hair dryer. Put it on its hottest setting and aim it at your lock for a couple of minutes. Then when you finally get the door open, put in the silicone stuff or whatever you are using to thaw the lock. But of course, you have to have a hair dryer, an extension cord and a place to plug it in.

I am not sure a hair dryer/ extension cord and snow/ water make a particularly good H&S recipe

I suggest just licking the frozen lock with your hot tongue

Upphew · Post by **Upphew** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:02 am

maxxfi wrote:
Upphew wrote:Oil+water=bad, condensation, I let you draw your own conclusions.
Sorry, I don't get where oil and water gets summed up

Inside of the motor. Its not a vacuum there.

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