Quick question chaps...
Next years project is wood cladding the two bedroom ceilings upstairs. As easy as a laminate floor? Is it just a case of wacking the boards up with a nail gun - or should I get a pro in?
Thoughts/advice gratefully received.
Tongue & groove(y) ceilings...
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Karhunkoski
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- Joined: Mon Sep 25, 2006 1:44 pm
- Location: Keski-Suomi
Re: Tongue & groove(y) ceilings...
Depends if you're just replacing the boards or need new batons.
Political correctness is the belief that it's possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
Re: Tongue & groove(y) ceilings...
Ummmmm.....well all that's there at the moment is some large square brown insulating boards - looks kind of like UK plasterboard stuff - it's on the walls too (now papered). I was just gonna nail through that. Wrong plan obvs...Karhunkoski wrote:Depends if you're just replacing the boards or need new batons.
Looks like I'd better get a profeshinal in then 
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Karhunkoski
- Posts: 7034
- Joined: Mon Sep 25, 2006 1:44 pm
- Location: Keski-Suomi
Re: Tongue & groove(y) ceilings...
If it's solid, attach some batons to it, say every 40cm, then attach the tongue 'n groove to that (screws are always a good options rather than nails for attaching the batons). If it's not solid, call an "expert" for a quote ands ask him what needs doing. If you're not under time pressure and don't have a thumb in the middle of your palm, it's worth having a go yourself. Even if you take a few boards getting the hang of things, it' still cheaper than a "professional", and next time you're skilled 
Rough edges can be easily hidden with some quadrant. Just check there are no pipes behind, etc. Building stuff isn't rocket science, just needs thought and practice, perhaps a little reading.
Rough edges can be easily hidden with some quadrant. Just check there are no pipes behind, etc. Building stuff isn't rocket science, just needs thought and practice, perhaps a little reading.Political correctness is the belief that it's possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
Re: Tongue & groove(y) ceilings...
I did a similar job this summer in the room I use as my office. I wanted space above the ceiling to hide lots of network & power cables, so I put in some joists and attached the boarding to those. This also meant I could be sure of getting a flat & level surface with no ripples. If your ceilings are high enough that you can lose a few inches this might be a good option. If you do that, consider putting some hatches to access the space above the new ceiling boards. I made mine flush and they are not visible unless you know where to look for them.
I invested in a compressor and a nail gun to do the job and was glad I did. I also made a set of trestles so I could put a scaffold at just the right height. This was much better than using step ladders, and the trestles will come in useful for future jobs. The other thing is to run all cables for lights etc before you fit the boards - I also put in some spares and some pull strings so I can easily add more if needed. If you don't have a power mitre saw consider getting one. You don't need a fancy one but the work will be far easier, quicker & better than with a hand saw for cutting the boards to length.
You should normally run the boards at 90 degrees to the wall with the (main) windows, to avoid shadows showing up any irregularities. I didn't do that because it increased the span for my joists more than I wanted, but the result is quite OK anyway.
I suggest you buy the boards now and store them in your house so they acclimatise before you fit them. I did that because I have seen the shrinakage that can result from people putting up boards immediately after buying them. If you intend to paint the boards, paint them before you put them up next summer. You might want to touch up afterwards but you'll get a better result if you paint beforehand.
As Karhunkoski says, this stuff isn't difficult, it just needs thought and practise. The thought is important; work everything out before starting work so you have no nasty surprises later. I found the job wasn't difficult but it was a LOT easier when I had a helper. Before that I was using a "dead man" which is OK but not ideal.
I invested in a compressor and a nail gun to do the job and was glad I did. I also made a set of trestles so I could put a scaffold at just the right height. This was much better than using step ladders, and the trestles will come in useful for future jobs. The other thing is to run all cables for lights etc before you fit the boards - I also put in some spares and some pull strings so I can easily add more if needed. If you don't have a power mitre saw consider getting one. You don't need a fancy one but the work will be far easier, quicker & better than with a hand saw for cutting the boards to length.
You should normally run the boards at 90 degrees to the wall with the (main) windows, to avoid shadows showing up any irregularities. I didn't do that because it increased the span for my joists more than I wanted, but the result is quite OK anyway.
I suggest you buy the boards now and store them in your house so they acclimatise before you fit them. I did that because I have seen the shrinakage that can result from people putting up boards immediately after buying them. If you intend to paint the boards, paint them before you put them up next summer. You might want to touch up afterwards but you'll get a better result if you paint beforehand.
As Karhunkoski says, this stuff isn't difficult, it just needs thought and practise. The thought is important; work everything out before starting work so you have no nasty surprises later. I found the job wasn't difficult but it was a LOT easier when I had a helper. Before that I was using a "dead man" which is OK but not ideal.
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Keravalainen
- Posts: 362
- Joined: Tue Jul 07, 2009 2:00 pm
- Location: Finland
Re: Tongue & groove(y) ceilings...
Hi!
Did a ceiling like that at home a few years ago. Used there Kymppi-Paneli panels covered with genuine wood veneer (beech) for that.
http://www.hauhonpuu.fi/sivut/tuotteet.html
- It looks better than the cheap plastic things available at Bauhaus etc.
Also wanted the lights in the ceiling to be inlaid spots. For that you need to lower the ceiling with a wood construction some 12,5 cm to make room for aluminum "pans" that insulate heath of the spots. The panels are nailed to battens.
Remember to ask your electrician to install "pans" and tubes for wiring before you install the panels.
- The hatches mentioned by DMC are a good idea.
Here's how I made the construction.
- First two battens 50 mm attached on each other, and then at 90 degrees the thin ones (30 mm) where the panels are attached. Used screws for attaching the battens to the ceiling and to each other. The panels were nailed with a small nail gun.
Here's how the ceiling looks like.
Did a ceiling like that at home a few years ago. Used there Kymppi-Paneli panels covered with genuine wood veneer (beech) for that.
http://www.hauhonpuu.fi/sivut/tuotteet.html
- It looks better than the cheap plastic things available at Bauhaus etc.
Also wanted the lights in the ceiling to be inlaid spots. For that you need to lower the ceiling with a wood construction some 12,5 cm to make room for aluminum "pans" that insulate heath of the spots. The panels are nailed to battens.
Remember to ask your electrician to install "pans" and tubes for wiring before you install the panels.
- The hatches mentioned by DMC are a good idea.
Here's how I made the construction.
- First two battens 50 mm attached on each other, and then at 90 degrees the thin ones (30 mm) where the panels are attached. Used screws for attaching the battens to the ceiling and to each other. The panels were nailed with a small nail gun.
Here's how the ceiling looks like.
