Need a 2nd hand car for 3 to 6 months. What should I choose?

[tetelee]

I need a car for myself till the end of this year, or maybe the end of February. Since it is a relatively short time, the depreciation is the most important factor when I choose the car (or actually whether I should buy a car at all). So my question is, what kind of price/mileage/brand maybe a good choice in my case? When I resell it, I am hoping that I will lose 1K at most.

I have thought about some cases: I can buy a 5 to 6 K car with 80K mileage. Or something below 3 K with 100K mileage. I have read that many suggest to buy from car dealers. But I visited some dealers but they were quite rude and gave me some confusing information: one guy from autokeskus (that's the one who gave confusing information, not the rude one) suggested me a Nissan Primera, price is 5K and mileage is 190K (quite much in my opinion). He said I may sell it for 3.9K after 6 months but only as private seller (they may take it for 2K). When I asked the guarantee, he said they don't provide guarantee for such an old car. I asked for another car around 4K, 100K mileage but he said if I buy it I buy a big problem (some potential electronic problem. Even though the car was just inspected last month). Another guy from another dealer (I can't remember the name) wouldn't give me an ESTIMATION on how much they would buy the car back when I sell it 6 months later. I explained I just need an ESTIMATION, not a GUARANTEE, but he still didn't reply, I don't think he was trying to make any deal today.

So my question are here:

1) isn't it compulsory for car dealer to provide guarantee (6 months somebody mentioned) for the second hand car they sell (no matter how old it is)?

2) Many people said don't buy a car below 2K because you may need to pay a couple of thousands to fix it right after you have it. The cars I saw were all recently (within one month) finished inspection (I of course don't want to do it when I drive it. And when I sell it I hope there is still a couple months). So if a car passed the inspection last month, does it mean I should expect it to run for a couple of months IN GENERAL? And is an extra pre-sell check necessary for dealer-sold car, which was inspected last month?

3) If people like me are reluctant to buy a second hand car from private seller (I admit I am a newbie driver), does it mean it will take longer (how long) to sell it (of course I am aware that if I sell it to a dealer they pay less)?

4) Is there any suggestions on my situation? I have some friends who even bought a car with 200K mileage for 1K and drove it for 2 years without any problem. But to my understanding this is a rare case?

[Ligence]

With cars, everything is possible. A colleague bought a 2001 Volvo with over 300k on the clock for some thousands of euros and has to my understanding had a few relatively small issues with it. Another collague has a very expensive just-out-of-warranty Audi and the engine self-destructed a few months ago. I have a Jaguar, over 10 years old now, and it has never let me down (though obviously some wear-and-tear parts have had to be replaced). It's all down to a mix of luck and a proper pre-purchase inspection (performed by a professional perhaps).

A recent MOT checkup is of course a good thing, but all that really means is that it is road legal, even if just barely. All kinds of scrapmobiles sail through the MOT test while leaking fluids if the tester is lax enough...

I'm under the impression that a dealer has to provide the 6 month "warranty" for a 2nd hand car they sell, however, if something breaks down, they will only pay some (small) amount of the total costs, because the car is old. I chatted with a guy who had bought an old, maybe a 2000 model, Audi A6 from a dealer, and the engine broke down completely about 2 months later. The dealer agreed to pay something like 1/6th of the repair costs or even less. As dealer prices tend to be higher and the only "selling point", the "warranty", isn't exactly a strong one, rather than strictly looking at dealer cars take with you someone who knows something about cars and perhaps consider paying for that professional checkup.

An older car with a higher mileage will obviously depreciate much less over 6 months than a newer car.

[orys]

I once bought a 12 year old Nissan Primera with about 60 000 miles on the clock with an intention to keep it for short period of time. It turned out to be indestructable, I was driving it for next three years with only two minor issues then sold it for more than I paid in the first place with the mileage exactly 99 999 miles

So if you will be only half as lucky with your Primera, then go for it.

(Disclaimer: it was old, P10 primera, P11 was the same model after face lifting, the new one was an utter piece of crap, don't touch it!).

[rinso]

I have read that many suggest to buy from car dealers. But I visited some dealers but they were quite rude and gave me some confusing information:

Dealers have to take in old cars when they sell a new one. But second hand cars are not an interesting business for them. When you ask if you can "borrow" an old car (buy it and sell it back for more or less the same price) they are not enthusiastic and try to discourage you.

What you should do depends completely on the purpose of the car. How important is it that it runs 100% of the time? Do you have an alternative in case of ..? Remember the start of the winter often is difficult for older cars. I don't think a mileage below 200 k will be critical for a good maintained car if you only need it for a short time. (my old car broke down after 700 k) But when you buy second hand you should expect some costs since the owner will not invest in it when he starts thinking about a new car (tires, battery and so on).

[tetelee]

As dealer prices tend to be higher and the only "selling point", the "warranty", isn't exactly a strong one, rather than strictly looking at dealer cars take with you someone who knows something about cars and perhaps consider paying for that professional checkup.

An older car with a higher mileage will obviously depreciate much less over 6 months than a newer car.

Thanks for your reply. You have an really interesting point (and yet it somehow makes sense): if the "warranty" the deal provides is that weak why would we I pay premium to them for cars most likely with the same conditions? Of course I fully understand that this is a matter of probability. And I am just hoping I can get a car without any problem in the next 6 months, provided that I drive like an average driver, and when I sell it I won't lose too much, with HIGH PROBABILITY.

I saw some (two or three) 10 years old Fiat Punto driven about 80K, price ranging from 2.5K to 4K. Everybody says French cars are a headache but does it mean IN GENERAL a 10 years old, 80K mileage Punto is even more vulnerable than a same age Toyota Yaris driven 160K? To my understanding the prices of brand new ones are about the same ...

[tetelee]

When you ask if you can "borrow" an old car (buy it and sell it back for more or less the same price) they are not enthusiastic and try to discourage you.

What you should do depends completely on the purpose of the car. How important is it that it runs 100% of the time? Do you have an alternative in case of ..? Remember the start of the winter often is difficult for older cars. I don't think a mileage below 200 k will be critical for a good maintained car if you only need it for a short time. (my old car broke down after 700 k) But when you buy second hand you should expect some costs since the owner will not invest in it when he starts thinking about a new car (tires, battery and so on).

Thanks for your reply. Well, he should have understood that, as I explained to him, I was only asking because I needed the buy-price as a reference (and very important one) when I am making decision. They surely don't have any obligation to buy it back with that price. I was only asking for a ROUGH price that any dealer might offer so I was not saying that "hey I buy it from you now and you should give me a really good price when I resell it to you.". But anyway, this was not the first time that I realized Finns are conservative and sometimes even stubborn when doing business

Regarding to my requirements, I of course hope it runs the whole time without any problem. It's a matter of probability but it should be highly likely. Because not only I am a freshman dealing with cars but will also be quite busy in the next months (that's why I need a car). And as I mentioned the depreciation is the most important factor and I am willing to lose about 1K when I resell it. BTW I don't think I will drive it heavily so probably the mileage will only increase 3 thousands or less after 6 months.

[Honest]

Katsastus is more about brakes and body condition of the car (nowadays emssions as well) but it doesn't tell much about the condition of the engine. It makes sure that you are not a danger for others while driving on the roads but it doesn't tell if you will be able to start the car or not right after the check up.


There are always risks while buying a second hand car but I would suggest you to buy a car around 2.5k , owned by a working lady (for at least 3-4 years and make sure that she is the one using the car not her 20 year old son). In this price you'll be most probably buying a French or Italian car.

Find a car on nettiauto.com and take somebody with you who has driven cars for some years to have a look before buying.

[tetelee]

Katsastus is more about brakes and body condition of the car (nowadays emssions as well) but it doesn't tell much about the condition of the engine. It makes sure that you are not a danger for others while driving on the roads but it doesn't tell if you will be able to start the car or not right after the check up.


There are always risks while buying a second hand car but I would suggest you to buy a car around 2.5k , owned by a working lady (for at least 3-4 years and make sure that she is the one using the car not her 20 year old son). In this price you'll be most probably buying a French or Italian car.

Find a car on nettiauto.com and take somebody with you who has driven cars for some years to have a look before buying.

Thanks for your reply. That's my first impression too. I do see some Fiat Punto whose sellers are ladies, 80K mileage, 9, 10 years old, prices are about 3 thousands. Of course I will also check the car's history, probably do a pre-purchase checkup and have some of my friend (who knows both cars and Finnish better them me) come with me. But what do you generally think of this car?

[Honest]

My first car was a Punto and it was not bad at all. If you are a new driver you might find it a bit uncomfortable if car doesn't have a power steering.

I also owned a Renault Megane 1.4, it was a good car.

[atas]

I once bought a 12 year old Nissan Primera with about 60 000 miles on the clock with an intention to keep it for short period of time. It turned out to be indestructable, I was driving it for next three years with only two minor issues then sold it for more than I paid in the first place with the mileage exactly 99 999 miles

So if you will be only half as lucky with your Primera, then go for it.

(Disclaimer: it was old, P10 primera, P11 was the same model after face lifting, the new one was an utter piece of crap, don't touch it!).

Japanese cars is the most reliable breed.

[tetelee]

I once bought a 12 year old Nissan Primera with about 60 000 miles on the clock with an intention to keep it for short period of time. It turned out to be indestructable, I was driving it for next three years with only two minor issues then sold it for more than I paid in the first place with the mileage exactly 99 999 miles

So if you will be only half as lucky with your Primera, then go for it.

(Disclaimer: it was old, P10 primera, P11 was the same model after face lifting, the new one was an utter piece of crap, don't touch it!).

P11 was produced between 1995 and 2002 and P12 was 2002 to 2008. I guess a car produced in 2002 was a bit old to me and the one I saw was probably P12 (it seems that it has been sold out since I can't find it online anymore!). My friend also told me Japanese cars are considered less problem-prone.

[Honest]

of course Japanese and German cars are more durable and more reliable. But in your price range you are very unlikely to get any reasonable German or Japanese car.

[orys]

Japanese cars is the most reliable breed.

Mine was actually made in Newcastle, but I guess it is about design. I now have another Japanese car (this time made in Japan) and I love it.

Primera P12 problems, from what I was told, were mostly due to it sharing too much, especially electronics and electric, with Renault Laguna...

[buffalo_soldier]

Primera P12 problems, from what I was told, were mostly due to it sharing too much, especially electronics and electric, with Renault Laguna...

it's true! P12 Primera (2002-2008) prone to have a lot of electrical problem , one of most common reason is bad grounding. That's why 2nd hand Primera resale value suck.

Anyway, don't consider Nissan as 100% Japs company, since its alliance with Renault in 2004~2005 Nissan cars are no longer as reliable as other true Japs brands like: Toyota, Honda, Subaru, etc. Cost cutting, common components sharing and even platforms with French Renault are all obvious reason. What a shame for such legend of Nissan Patrol, Pathfinder,etc. Nowadays, most of Nissan current fleet: Qashqai, new Xtrail, Juke,etc. are all crap, but hey they're damn cheap.

So, don't count Nissan car as Japanese car (except the Japs name ), nowadays their strategy and execution are so far-off from what true Japanese automobile is.

[Huy]

A quick list of the cars I've owned while in Finland:

Ford Fiesta 2004 1,25 Zetec- Broke constantly and always needed some fixing. Very generic car in fair weather. Snow and frost? Only if I was running late for work.

Volvo V40 2000 1.8 Sportswagon - Damn fine machine, always reliable, but thirsty. Very thirsty.

Audi A2 2000 1.4 - This automobile cannot be praised enough. Bought it around 5 years back, only needed to change the normal stuff ( brakes and shock absorbers ) to this day. And being made in aluminum, that thing never rust! Top class quality build and very economical in every sense. Still have it. Still looks brand new. Best money ever spent on a car.

Land Rover Freelander 1999 1.8 - I just had to try a 4x4, and I got burned so bad with this pile of crap. Always something broken or breaking. Do not touch. Ever.

Opel Zafira 2001 1.8 - I was in need of a cheap van sized transporter. Crap quality, rusty, and the only car that gave me a surprise 360 during wintertime. But it was cheap.

Volvo XC90 2005 2.5T - well, family grew, I walked into a dealer and asked what car the owner and his kids would prefer to be in, in case of an accident. Without hesitation, the XC90 was pointed out. Solid and wellbuilt, very nice to drive ( I just freaking love automatic transmissions ) and handles the winter very well. Those raised ice-tracks on the road during winter? HA! No more sweaty hands nor new undies when the wheels gets caught in those bastards! Not so thirsty, surprisingly, considering how big and heavy this mofo is.

So, now I have my perfect pair. The A2 and the XC90. Daily commute or going alone anywhere, A2 never disappoints. The XC90 is used whenever my kids needs transport.

Bottom line, if you plan to drive daily the next 6 months, that's gonna include some snow and subzero temperatures you need to take into account. A weak battery left unused in minus 3000 degrees, will make you curse like a drunk hobo, before crying like a girl when you realize you will be late for work that day. My dear neighbor and his Alfa 156 can confirm ( this applies to all cars btw ).
Almost new wintertires is a MUST with the deal. Sucky ones came with the deal? Add 500€ for new ones. I always look at the datecode along with the wear and tear. Rubber older than 3 years, is bad rubber for me. 500 off the price or walk away. Etc etc.
If you buy lunch, I'd be happy to assist you in the art of buying used.